Herräng Survival Guide

With just under a week to go until this year's [2016] Herräng swings out for the first time, I thought I would share a bit of self-anointed wisdom based on my own experiences.

For people travelling from big scenes it's probably easy to ask a savvy someone for tips but as I didn't know another sinner from Northern Ireland who had ever been to Herräng before, it was a mad case of the unknown.

Herräng is hardly the uncharted tropics but as an animal behaviour researcher - having spent weeks living in tents in the back of beyond getting little sleep, battling mosquitoes and alternating between sun-cream and waterproofs in the same day - I can safely say the similarities with Herräng end there.

I did a bit of googling before my trip and that helped a bit (unsurprisingly, other people have been to Herräng and written about it), however, there are quite a few blog posts that simply instruct you to pack comfy dance shoes, a "say yes!" attitude and to "bring your best self!". hashtagsmileyface

Now, call me a cynic, but I can tell you that a bit of effervescence bubbling behind some pearly whites is just not going to stave off hunger or the Herräng flu. I do of course encourage you to head off to Sweden with a positive attitude (not terribly difficult for Lindy hoppers) but I thought I'd extend the list a tad and pad it out with a few tips that are are a bit more... tangible.

So whether this is your first trip, or you've been before but need a few reminders, here we go...

So you know what to expect, this is 'downtown' Herräng (courtesy of Google Streetview). That red building on the left houses the Kuggen and this is the most built-up area in the town.

Cash

There are no ATMs and nowhere does cashback, so whether you bring it from home or exchange at the airport, you really want to have enough Swedish krona (and NOT EUROS!!) with you. And more than you think. There are no hidden costs for the dancing, but some people, especially non-Europeans, were a tad shocked by the price of food and drink. FYI: it's not capitalist extortion, it's just Sweden being Scandinavian.

For larger purchases in the office, Lindy Hop Shop or in the Kuggen (the grocery store in the centre of Herräng) cards are accepted but for everything else, you need cash: cafes, laundry, bike hire, internet access, pop-up food wagons, bedding rental (all accommodation is bring your own bedding so you will need to rent that if you arrive unprepared).

Food

There are several food options in camp. Heaven's Kitchen is the main food hut/tent, whilst Café Blue Moon, Bar Bedlam and the Ice Cream Parlor (ICP to the cool kids) offer lighter alternatives. I really recommend buying a food card as it works out quite reasonable, the food is hearty, it's no hassle, and communal dining is a huge social activity in and of itself - last year I had dinner with Norma Miller, Dawn Hampton, Chazz Young, Chester Whitmore and a handful of the pros. That's some premium namedropping right there but my point is how open and convivial this place is and this time next year you too can write a smug blog post about it.

NB - vegans shouldn't expect a huge selection but they are catered for.

There are also a handful of pop-up food wagons in and around Herräng that offer pizza, noodles, and burgers, and the Kuggen is also there for your basic grocery needs.

clockwise from top left: outside one of the tent dorms, inside one of the tent dorms, private (bring your own) tents, laundry

Accommodation

As I've already said, you will need to bring your own bedding no matter where you're staying, but for those in any of the tented dorms be aware that you also have zero privacy. If you're a light sleeper, bring a sleep mask or ear plugs because it will be noisier and brighter than you're used to. If you are lucky enough to get a bottom bunk, some folk managed to attach spare sheets to the edges of the bunk above to create a slightly private partition but that will be the height of it.

Also, whilst the vibe in Herräng is overwhelmingly friendly, be aware that, yes, even in the Lindy hop community, there are unsavoury wazzocks with sticky fingers and valuables occasionally go missing, so take the necessary precautions or use one of the on-site lockers (although you must bring your own padlock).

Clothes

What you choose to wear to most Herräng socials/classes is entirely up to you and on any given night/day you could be surrounded by an impeccably dressed 1930s gent, a 1950s gal, some dude in a football shirt and tracksuit bottoms, a potential lumberjack, or a girl that looks like she just walked off the pages of a Zara catalogue. People generally opt for whatever makes them feel most comfortable and this is exactly how you should approach things too, but I also suggest bringing twice as many tops/pairs of underwear as you're thinking, or be prepared to launder, and for classes especially I really recommend light shorts or skirts and avoiding anything cotton (it gets wet and heavy). If you haven't yet considered buying a good sports compression vest, consider it.

That said, there are two nights that require more planning. Slow Drag Night (AKA blues night) on the Tuesday and the new Savoy night (replacing the Friday costume parties) are occasions for high vintage fashion so bring something a little special to avoid feeling out of place. On the Friday nights, smart dress (i.e. no jeans, tshirts etc) is now compulsory.

Shoes. Similar to what clothes to wear, your shoe choice is again entirely personal preference but if you can forgo style for a few hours a day, do it. Your feet will never have experienced such a pounding and if they don't want to dance, you won't want to dance, so look after them! The most comfortable shoes you own are the ones you want to wear to classes (although make sure they don't have too much grip or you will feel it in your knees).

Also come prepared for different dance floors. The dance tents (where most of the classes are held) have temporary floors that have a nice spring to them but can be rough and uneven, whilst the main ballroom in the Folkets Hus, especially if you experience it just after waxing, can be like polished glass.

Non-dancing gear. Something to saunter about in, something to sleep in, something to swim in, warm clothes, warm-weather clothes, wet-weather clothes. Bring the lot.

Health & Herräng flu

I fancy I've a decent immune system (years of drinking unpasteurised milk will do that) but after operating for two weeks critically under-slept, I definitely had a tickle in my throat and a cough for a few days towards the end. The best precautions you can take are: nap when you can (although I think I tried to nap every day I was there and every time I just ended up lying in bed thinking about dancing!), wash your hands regularly, and eat properly.

You may also want to pack cough-medicine, sun-cream and mosquito repellent but they usually have all you need at the Kuggen or Kiosk.

Definitely pack an antiseptic cream like Savlon - whether for mosquito bites, skin chafing or something else: I guarantee you will be glad you brought it.

Re-hydration chat can sound a bit 'personal trainer' but have a listen to me anyway - you want to bring an isotonic drink. Water may suffice for your standard weekly hour-long dance but it won't cut it when you're doing such a high energy activity for so long. Stand back, here's the science:

Drinking high volumes of plain water won't quench thirst but will make you feel bloated and will stimulate higher sweat and urine output. This depletes your electrolytes (sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, chloride, bicarbonate, phosphate, sulphate... all those things that are listed on the side of your average bottle of multivitamins) as they're what's oozing out of your pores and making your eyes sting; if you don't top them up you definitely will flag.

And do not rely on high sugar energy drinks - they will give you an ephemeral kick and then the extra build-up of lactic acid will leave you worse off. Look for a drink that includes carbohydrates (that's where your energy comes from) and best of all, look for it in powder form: last year, I took a single container of isotonic drink powder and it lasted for my entire trip.

Shower regularly. This sounds obvious but even if you are absolutely wrecked, have a shower before going to bed. Not only will you beat the rush in the morning but it will also reduce your chances of skin irritation (less chafing!) and means you are not climbing into an increasingly dirty bed each night.

clockwise from top left: approaching the checkpoint and looking up at Folkets Hus, looking down from the centre of Folkets Hus at the queue for the Daily Meeting, Dansbanan at 7am, Folkets Hus ballroom during the Hot Sugar Band set: dancing room was nonexistent & breathing room was a luxury

Additional tips

I really enjoyed the 9pm Daily Meetings but so did most people. So much so that the queues for them were huge; make sure you get there early (at least 20 minutes early).

The social dancing starts not long after the daily meetings and there are obvious peak social dancing hours when the floor is absolutely mobbed. Go earlier in the night, 9pm-11pm, and there is more space and it is more beginner-friendly, between 11pm-3am most people will be on the floor and your dance etiquette and floor craft needs to be on point, 3am-6am there are fewer people but the music can vary considerably between DJs, 6am-10am it's diehards running on steam but I had some of my favourite dances after 7am when some of the music got a bit wilder.

Notebooks are very useful as not all pros give video recaps and you definitely won't remember everything you've been taught.

Bring a needle and thread. If you need an explanation why, you probably shouldn't be handling anything pointy.

You do not have to dance at every available opportunity. Coming from a small scene and wading into Lindy hop mecca where the level is high, partners abundant, music fantastic and socials never-ending it was incredibly tempting to dance every given second. Depending on how long you are going to Herräng for, and whether or not you are taking classes, there is no shame in taking a break now and then. In the end, this is one of the things that will help you get the most out of your experience.

For any who can't bear to be without their mobile phones or internet, there is signal and there is also wifi (for a fee) but a lot's to be said for leaving the electronics somewhere safe and just interacting with those around you. Old school.

The Lindy Hop Shop stocks a host of vintage gear and dance shoes so if you come from somewhere where this kind of stuff is hard to come by, Herräng may be the place to get it. There is also a vintage hairdresser/barber on site and a sauna - you're in Scandinavia after all.

There is generally a two-dance standard in Sweden (something that doesn't exist in my own scene) so check with each partner to avoid confusion and/or insult. And this can work both ways - a partner sauntering off after the first dance can trigger a brief existential dilemma, whilst a partner continuing to hold hands and eye contact after one song has finished can cause an altogether different uncertainty.

And finally:

• hej - hello
• hej då - goodbye
• ja - yes
• nej - no
• tack - thanks
• fika - coffee break (very important!)
• ursäkta - sorry
• skål - cheers
• får jag lov? - may we dance?

Ha så kul!